Well, today woke up to check the surf and for the third day in a row, well flat, not rideable out front. First time I've seen this much flatness in one season in 6 years. Gotta get my paddle on somehow, so went back to the soda, grabbed my big board and paddled down to a remote reef break, La Lecheria, (just south of here, haha). Lots of turtles and fish jumpin around and swirlin. Very nice paddle, about 2 miles to get there around a rocky reef about 1/2 mile off shore. I left Soda Mary the same time Big Mike started driving down there to walk the rest of the way and I was in the lineup first. Scored about 4 good set waves, long rides, then started paddling the 2 miles back, catching some rights on the way that left me in knee deep reef, peligroso. I was well offshore when all of a sudden, big rocks started sticking out of the water, bumped the bottom of my board one time, paddled further out to sea, saw a fishing boat, Mainor, finally finished with his drinking binge, said hello, then paddled in and around La Sirena to get back to the beach. All in all, good day, good paddle, just like goin to the gym.
Pray for waves or a slumpbuster...
1 comment:
its 40 freakin degrees here and no surf to speak of. gotta move farther south. global warmin my ass. gettin ready for the super bowl party, dustin out the house and chippin the ice off the grill. have a wonderful day in paradise from big brother in g-town.
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